Burda 128 - 1/2013

My first project for the Burda Sew Along is a waterfall coat from the January 2013 issue.

This issue has renewed my confidence in Burda.  As a long time customer and fan of the wonderful fit and style of Burda I struggled with the less is more and deconstructed fashions of late.  That fashion is not a flattering one for my body type and size.  This issue has lots of great styles and this coat is the first of many that I will make up.

128 Burda Plus Felted Wool Coat

This is the coat matched with this fabric - bought from the amazing Global Fabric's in Auckland.  It was pricey (35.00m or around about that) but worth it I think.  I also bought some silk paisley, silk velvet and merino to make a capsule which co-ordinate with the wool.

The best thing about this pattern is how wonderfully it is drafted - the dart makes all the difference removing some of the excess fabric that this type of garment can have.

Back Yoke

Lapel line dart

Pattern Sizing.

As I selected a knit fabric to make this, I decided to make size 48, which is a little smaller than my bust measurement but wanted a close fit.  Flat pattern measuring showed that there was enough ease for the look I wanted.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Sort of  - because I made a smaller size it has a more fitting profile than in the picture, but that was the look I was going for.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I read the instructions before cutting out but did my own thing! Which is why I now need to think of how to get the darts to sit the right way as the pattern is lined, and it would have been better to do a CB flat fell seam for the collar. 

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the way the pattern is cut with a dart at the lapel line, which means the collar falls beautifully.  The other plus of this pattern is the back yoke is cut on the front and helps form the collar.  The result of this is a more fitting garment – I like this style with the draped front but am not a fan of the loose look that can result with this style and this pattern is more fitted.

Fabric used?

A wool lace knit from Global Fabrics in Auckland, which is super soft and very warm to wear.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made?

No changes made – the pattern was made up as is.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others?

Yes I plan to make this again – perhaps with a woven fabric this time.  I highly recommend this for a sleek chic garment.

Conclusion.

This is a very well designed pattern, which with the dart makes a very flattering coat.  I highly recommend this pattern and love the fact that it is in a range of plus sizes.

As I used a rather different fabric than that recommended I know have a dilemma about finishing the edge.  The fabric is very light weight and 'wafts' around which I do not want to destroy - I have been experimenting with overlocking the edge or edging with bias chiffon strip. I like the look of the chiffon strip but as the fabric right and wrong side shows I need to work through how to do this to the best advantage - suggestions are welcome.

Overlocked edge.

Edge folded over and stitched

Bias chiffon Strip

Burda Magazines and questions answered.

I thought I would start with answering the questions about my relationship with Burda patterns.

My wonderful mother used to make all her childrens clothes as was common at this time.  Money was tight so she often remade garments from handme downs and cast offs - at this time this was not chic and fashionable but rather a necessary part of survival!  When there was money available she would purchase fabric and reach for a Burda magazine and sew us beautiful dresses, trousers, shirts and tops.  My sisters and I spent hours pouring over the magazines, often handed on by our grandmother, dreaming of the outfits that might be created for us.  I fondly remember a bright red corduroy jacket and electric blue and red plaid bell bottoms with cuffs.  I was fortunate enough to have a pair of red patent lace ups given to me to wear with this outfit!  I thought I was the bees knees wearing this getup!  It was a sad day when the outfit  had to be passed down to the next sister.  I do not have any photos of this but here are two wonderful dresses that my mother made, I am wearing them to show off at Calf day.

Fast forward to the 1980's and I am sewing with Burda myself.  I still have a few of these magazines but they are very much of that time with big shoulder pads and dropped shoulders - I am not sure that they are really much use for anything but interest.

At this time Burda produced a variety of pattern magazines, Miss B had fashion for the young woman and was often very fashion forward - this was a fav from this time.  Sewing made Easy was also another favourite as each pattern was illustrated with step by step photos.  My sewing skills were greatly improved by these magazines and I still have a large number of them.

At present I have a large collection of Burda and as previously mentioned was gifted most issues from 2000 to 2010.  This is a great timewaster as I often spend time pouring through the magazines to find that perfect shirt or blouse, shades of my childhood!  I also have a large collection of Burda Plus magazines and have made numerous garments from these.  In addition I also have paper patterns which I have purchased when the thought of tracing the design was going to hinder the creative urge.

I have often thought that I needed to be more organised and file each magazines black outline section in a folder to make searching the right pattern easier but then...no that would destroy some of the process for me. 

Here is the latest tagging for this sewalong!!