Confusion and cowl necks, Vogue and Burda, Part 1.

I have finally photographed my recent cowl neck sewathon.  It all started when I trialled a Burda Cowl Neck for inclusion into my 6PAC.  I was not satisfied with the final look, it was too loose and baggy,  I was looking for a more fitted style.  So off I went to the stash where I found; Vogue 9771 which I had made up many years ago, Simplicity 1945 featured in Threads autumn showcase, Burda 7519.  After reading about the Creative Cate from Style Arc patterns  on Stitchers Guild Style Arc Discussion I decided to purchase.

I used a lightweight polyester knit that was in the stash as a muslin. These finished garments will be off to the Red Cross shop to find new homes.

First up is Vogue 7519.

Pattern Description. Semi- fitted, pullover top has bias front and back.

Pattern Sizing. View C size 22.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern has been in the Vogue pattern catalogue since the nineties.  Although it is designed for woven fabrics cut on the bias I decided to try making this in a knit. I don’t want to trash this pattern with faint praise, it is a workhorse garment, great for a basic.

Fabric Used.  Lightweight polyester knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? I substituted a knit for a woven fabric. When sewing the front to back I changed the way the cowl is sewn following the method suggested by Burda.  I made this up as per the pattern but did not use the facings.  I used strips to bind the armholes.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others? This is a classic pattern that has stood the test of time.  If you have made this the first time around are you able to make it again the next time???

Conclusion

Another classic pattern but can be fiddly to sew the cowl matching the dots. Goodbye to Valentine made this top up and called it a practical garment.

http://goodbyevalentino.com/2012/07/30/a-sensible-top-vogue-9771/

Burda 7519

Pattern Description. T-shirt, semi-fitted.

Pattern Sizing. Graded up to Size 22.  This pattern only has up to size 20 so I had to grade it up to size 22 following Burda’s instructions.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes the cowl neck falls in beautiful folds but is very low and can be revealing. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the diagrams were particularly helpful.

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the darts which give a sleek fitted look, which is the look I am searching for.  The folds of the cowl are lovely and flattering but the neck is very low and revealing – I will tack the neck slightly closed and to maintain the folds in the cowl neck (thanks Mum for that suggestion).

Fabric Used.  Lightweight polyester knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? As this pattern did not come in my size I had to grade it up one size.  The grading was easy to do and very successful.  I did not move the darts as measurements showed they were in the right place however when made up in the fabric the front darts are not centred enough.  The back darts are in the perfect place.  Next time I will move the front darts 1cm in towards the centre front.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others? I would recommend this pattern as another more fitted cowl neck pattern with the proviso about the low neckline at the centre front.  I might try the other version with the waterfall sleeves, they look interesting.

Conclusion

A nice top with a deeper cowl than the other patterns – the addition of darts adds onto the sewing time but does give a sleek look.